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Culture and traditions

Yucatecan embroidery: xokbil-chuy and xmanikté

Two of Yucatán's best-known embroidery techniques are xokbil-chuy, cross-stitch made by counting three or four threads of the weave to form colored crosses, and xmanikté, drawn-thread openwork that removes threads from the fabric to form square designs. They decorate hipiles, mantillas, veils and mats, and are passed down in families and workshops.

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Mary Tours illustrative image for the guide "Yucatecan embroidery: xokbil-chuy and xmanikté"
Mary Tours illustrative image for the guide "Yucatecan embroidery: xokbil-chuy and xmanikté"

Xokbil-chuy: cross-stitch

The Yucatán government calls cross-stitch embroidery xokbil-chuy. The technique involves counting threads of the weave (three or four) before stitching each cross. Repeating crosses in rows builds the motifs. It's the classic embroidery on hipil necklines and hems.

Xmanikté: openwork

Xmanikté is described as drawn-thread or openwork: some threads are pulled from the fabric's weave to create square designs. It can be combined with inlays and randas.

Where they're used

  • Hipiles and ternos, mostly with cross-stitch.
  • Mantillas, veils and mats, with openwork.
  • Church textiles, also with openwork.

Knowledge passed down

According to the Yucatán government, these techniques are handed down in workshops and artisan families. So each piece is less a product than the result of skills learned over years.

Buying tips

  • Check the back: good cross-stitch is even on the reverse too.
  • Ask whether it's hand- or machine-embroidered.
  • Don't attribute invented meanings to the motifs.

Embroidery in the towns

Izamal and Valladolid, visited on Mary Tours trips, have shops and artisans where you can see these techniques. Trips leave from the office on Calle 61 in downtown Mérida.

Xokbil-chuyXmanikté
What it isCross-stitchDrawn-thread openwork
How it's doneCounting 3–4 threads per crossPulling threads from the fabric
DesignColored crosses in rowsSquare figures
Typical useHipiles and ternosMantillas, veils, mats

Fun facts

  • Yucatecan cross-stitch counts three or four threads per cross.
  • Openwork removes threads from the fabric itself.
  • Some church textiles are made with openwork.

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Frequently asked questions

What is xokbil-chuy?

Yucatecan cross-stitch, made by counting threads of the weave.

What is xmanikté?

Openwork that pulls threads from the fabric to form designs.

Where are they used?

On hipiles, ternos, mantillas, veils, mats and church textiles.

How are they learned?

In families and artisan workshops.

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Bacalar, Isla Mujeres and Tulum with a per-person coupon. Groups of 4 or more.

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Sources

  1. Gobierno de Yucatán. Promueven reconocimiento del bordado maya yucateco (2026-10-23)
  2. Gobierno del Estado de Yucatán. Traje típico (2026-10-23)
  3. Gobierno del Estado de Yucatán. Artesanías (2026-10-23)

Image credits

  • Mary Tours · Imagen publicada en el sitio de Mary Tours; confirmar autoría original antes de publicación

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